1914 Illustrated tourist guide to Bali 1914

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Illustrated tourist guide to  Bali 1914

1914

Map from 1897

The Island of Bali

Undoubtedly Bali is one of the most interesting and beautiful islands of the Dutch Archipelago, if not the beauty spot par excellence. Not only that daily may be observed the many interesting customs of the popu- lation, who in contrast with the inhabitants of the other islands yet strictly adhere to the Hindoo religion, but also the natural beauty of the land, which reaches its culmination point at a spot called Panalokan, far surpasses the other parts of the Dutch possessions. The trip through Bali may be made in two different ways. For those who cannot spare too much time, the best way is to land at the South coast at a place called Benoa and from there cross the island to the North coast, going via Den Pasar, Gianjar, Bangli and Kintamani, from some of these places making excursions to other places named later on. For the Traveller whose time is not limited it is best to land at the North coast at Boeleleng and go across the island by way of Moendoek, the mountain lakes and Tabanan to Den Pasar, from the latter named place taking the same route as given above. There is a regular service of steamers of the Royal Packet Steam navigation Company from Sourabaya to Bali, leaving Sourabaya weekly on Saturdays, alternate at 8 a.m. or 4 p.m., depending on whether the steamer calls at Madura and Banjoewangi, or not. On Sunday the steamer reaches Boeleleng, the harbor of Singaradja, which is the Capital of Bali, being situated on the North coast. It is the landing place for those who wish to spend a longer time in Bali. The steamer drops anchor in the roadsted, not far away from a pier or landing stage to which the passenger is conveyed by small boat. It is advisable for all those visiting Bali to go ashore at this place and to enquire at the agency of the Steamship company when the next sailings from this place to Sourabaya take place; the program for the trip may be mapped out accordingly. This on account of the fact that most of the steamers coming from the Molucco’s call here on their way to Sourabaya, their definite sailing dates only being known a little while beforehand. The steamer then proceeds to Benoa on the South coast, calling once fortnightly at Ampenan on the Island of Lombok. If such is the case, and Ampenan is reached by daylight, the passengers have ample time to go ashore there and make a nice excursion to Narmada, a description of which will be given in the chapter about Lombok. Benoa is reached on Monday; it is only a small place, the steamer mooring at a pier of very simple wooden construction. The Traveller lands here and after passing the customs, takes one of the small sailing boats which are always in readiness to convey passengers to the other side of the bay. It is not a very nice crossing, the more so when tide and wind are against and it thus takes a longer time to cross. As a rule such is done in about half an hour, but it may take a good deal longer. Another drawback of this landing is, that on account of the shallowness of the bay, the boats are not able to bring the passenger till the shore. Mostly the traps come through the water up till the boats but sometimes they remain stationed on the main road, in which case the Traveller has to wade through the water till reaching terra firma or he may be conveyed to the shore by means of the so called green cart, which generally is used to convey luggage to the shore and which is pushed by coolies. As soon as the traps are reached the difficulties are over and the trip to Den Pasar (Badoeng) is continued along a good road, for about half an hour.

Den Pasar (Badoeng)

The trip to Den Pasar (Badoeng) is continued along a good road,
 for about half an hour.
 Tariff and distance.
 Coolie at Benoa for carrying luggage . . Fl. 0.10 Boat
 for crossing the bay…………………..1 .50
 Trap from boat to Den Pasar, dry roads, 1 .50 wet roads,, 2.50
 Distance covered by trap, about 5 miles

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is the principal place of South Bali and the station of the Assistent Resident. It is only a small place which shows traces of being enlarged. All the European houses are new and there are many in course of construction. The place possesses a fairly good resthouse, which is under European management and which contains six bedrooms. Tariff Fl. 5.- a day. Permission to stay in the resthouse must be asked for to the Controleur of the Place, as is the case with all the resthouses found in Bali. The place itself does not offer much of interest to the Tourist. A few temples, which however are very beautiful. a museum which is being built in the different styles of architecture in use in the various parts of Bali, is about all which is to be seen here. This however alters when a cremation is going to be held. Then the Traveller may witness one of the most interesting spectacles imaginable. But it is only seldom that this occurs on account of its being so expensive. From Den Pasar some very nice excursions in the near neighbourhood may be done; f.i. to Tabanan, to Sanoer on the seashore and to Kesiman, where a beautiful temple may be visited. The latter excursion may be combined with the trip to Gianjar as the village Kesiman is passed then. From Den Pasar to Tabanan, 14 miles, trap there and back Fl. 10.-. The first day after arrival in Den Pasar is generally used to make the excursion to Tabanan and back. The way leads along a rather sunny road, through a most fertile part of the country and past interesting villages, which are altogether different from those in Java. They are surrounded by mud walls from six to eight feet in height and they are entered by a single narrow gateway. The houses are built of mud and covered with straw and they are mostly very small. Every bit of the country is cultivated and it will be noticed that the different cultures are worked much more intensively than is the case in Java; the principal culture is rice. Interesting is the way in which the road is laid through ravines. Whereas commonly the natives when crossing a ravine, make the road descend to the bottom to ascend the other side again, the Balinese just dam the whole of the ravine to lay the road over this dam, thus avoiding ups and downs. An outlet is made in the bottom of such a dam for the river or brooklet wich generally runs through the ravine. The dams are called Balinese culverts. But it is not only as a layer of roads that the Balinese are known. Also their waterworks for irrigating the rice fields are most ingenious and well worth visiting. The making of tunnels for irrigation purposes, the damming of rivers and such show the height which the Balinese have reached as regards irrigation. Tabanan itself is only a small place, like most of the Balinese towns consisting of a cluster of houses sur- rounded by mud walls. Sometimes those villages have one or two watch towers of considerable height, temples with or without structures looking like pagoda’s and a wide open space surrounded by lofty and shady trees for the native bazaar. Children and women are always in evidence while groups of men are seen preparing their fighting cocks in what may be called sparring matches for the more serious combat in the ring. When passing along the village streets one threads his way through endless lines of small crates containing cocks of all sorts and sizes, so that it really looks as if one happened to be in a poultry show. Returning to Den Pasar, the afternoon may be used to visit the Temples there, or when a native theatre is playing, to attend such

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From Den Pasar to Kloengkoeng via Gianjar.

Distances: Den Pasar – Gianjar 21 miles. Gianjar-Kloengkoeng 9 miles. Fares: Trap Den Pasar-Gianjar Fl. 1 5. id. Gianjar-Kloengkoeng single,, 7.50 there and back,, 10.-

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At present the road from Den Pasar to Gianjar leads via Kesiman, Soekawati and Pliatan; however a new road is being constructed via Soekawati and Blahbatoe, which will shorten the distance by 5 miles. The best way is to engage a trap at Den Pasar to convey the Traveller to Kloengkoeng and back from Kloengkoeng to Gianjar and on to Bangli, as in Gianjar and Kloengkoeng no traps are obtainable. Like the road to Tabanan there is not much shade, the only trees planted on the borders being cocoanut trees. The first part of the road does not offer much of interest as regards scenery, but the villages in this part of Bali are known as having the most beautiful temples, so the Traveller may take a rest in some of these to have a look around in the different temples. When nearing Gianjar the scene changes; a beautiful hilly country is gone through, which offers some splendid views. The landscape is getting more and more beautiful when nearing Kloengkoeng; some large rivers are crossed, the most of them having cable bridges. Kloengkoeng is only a small place; it is the station of a Controleur to whom permission must be asked to stay overnight in the resthouse, and in those of Bangli and Kintamani. in Kloengkoeng a good deal of wood carving is practised and some fine specimen of this craft may be seen at the office of the Controleur. The resthouse at Kloengkoeng, where the night is passed, contains four rooms; tariff Fl. 3.50 a day. It is well managed and very clean

From Kloengkoeng to Karangasem

From Kloengkoeng to Karangasem.
 Distance: Kloengkoeng – Karangasem 26 miles.
 Fare: Trap Kloengkoeng – Karangasem Fl. 10. –

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After spending the night at Kloengkoeng the trip is continued by trap, which may be ordered from Karang- asem, on to the last named place. The road leads via Satria and Manggis, at which place mostly a halt is made; one crosses the large River Oenda, one of the largest in Bali. The scenery along the route is very interesting and in some places shows nice views. Part leads along the sea shore and past Koesambe, a calling place for the steamers. The Traveller takes this way going, to return via Moentjan, the latter road going through a hilly part of the country with splendid views and beautiful scenery. Karangasem is a fairly large place, situated about 31/2 miles from the sea shore. It has a large native market and a good deal of intercourse. Many Balinese women are passing walking erect with a firm step under heavy loads carried on their heads. They are mostly tall and straight, with long black hair which they bunch up behind in fantastic irregularity. They wear a sarong, fastened with a cloth girdle, but nothing above the waist. Indeed they are provided with a kind of scarf called slendang, but the most of them wear this on their heads and do not trouble to pull it down when meeting a stranger. In Karangasem resides one of the native princes, who played rather an important part in the wars of the Dutch with Bali and Lombok; his name is Goesti Djilantik. The resthouse, where the night is passed, possesses three rooms; its tariff is FL. 3.50 a day

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From Karangasem to Bangli via Gianjar

Distances: Karangasem – Gianjar 35 miles. Gianjar-Bangli 9 miles. Fares: Trap Karangasem-Gianjar Fl. 17.50 id. Gianjar-Bangli,, 7.50 Horse Gianjar-Bangli,, 2.50 Horse attendant,, 0.50

As Gianjar does not offer much of interest to the Traveller, the best way is to start in the early morning by trap from Karangasem to Gianjar, to take lunch in the resthouse there, and to go on the same day to Bangli. If however the Traveller thinks this trip too strenuous, he may pass the night in the resthouse at Gianjar and proceed on his trip the following morning. The resthouse at Gianjar has four rooms; tariff Fl. 3.75 a day. The road from Gianjar to Bangli is a very nice one, leading past interesting native villages and through a beautiful part of the country, ascending all the way. When passing through South Bali, the Traveller may always observe some very interesting customs of the people: the bringing of offerings to the temples (these offerings being mostly made up from fruit or meat and from afar looking exactly as if they were made out of flowers), the flying of large queer kites, native dancing in which some very gaudy and queer costumes are used, etc. The Traveller will always do well, when coming to a place to ask the Government Officials for information if any dances or feasts are going on, so as to be able to witness such. Bangli is a fairly large place with some interesting temples. Unlike the other places, the Poera’s or residencies of the native princes are not demolished here, as they did not take part in the last war and it is well worth while to visit these very interesting buildings, which have some beautiful carving and grotesque paintings. The resthouse at Bangli is only a small one containing three rooms; tariff for a day Fl. 3.50. When arriving it is advisable to order horses for the trip to Kintamani through the native keeper, or if possible to ask the Controleur for assistance in procuring horses.

From Bangli to Kintamani

Distance: Bangli – Kintamani 18 miles Fares Horse from Bali to Kintamani Fl. 5.- Horse attendant or coolie,, 0.75 Food for horse at Kintamani,, I . –

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Leaving Bangli

the road steadily ascends and leads through a hilly country, mostly cultivated with maize or used as feeding ground for cattle. In front a ridge of hills hide everything from the view, but the sight when looking backwards, is very beautiful, showing the whole of South Bali with the sea in the background, some dark spots denoting the Island Penida and others; to the right the mountain Tabanan is seen, while to the left the lofty Peak of Bali, Mt. Agoeng, rises majestatically in the air. Going on, the ridge of hills in front draws nearer and nearer and the road passes through many cuttings in the hills, till at last, when through a cutting, a spot is reached, from where the Traveller finds himself suddenly confronting a spectacle as beautiful as it is unexpected. This spot is called by the natives,,Panalokan”, meaning,,,Look out”. It is the view over the enormous extinguished crater of the Batoer, out of which two new and very active eruption cones rise, whilst to the right the splendid crater lake of Batoer is seen. Standing on the edge of a precipice, which descends steeply for a thousand feet, the Traveller remains dumbfounded. Far away down the small village of Batoer is discerned; in the background the two craters of the Batoer show their activity by clouds of white vapor; to the right the beautiful crater lake shows like an Italian lake its wonderful blue surface, whilst further to the right the foliage covered slopes of’ the Mt. Abang, rice steeply out of the waters, presenting a wonderful combination of colors in the rays of the sun. On the sides of the active volcano a dark black streak shows the path of the lava stream poured forth at the last eruption, which only occurred some years ago. The lava stream just stopped at the temple entrance of the village Batoer, and on this account the temple is held in holy reverence by the natives. The road continues along the old crater wall, always giving the sight over the old crater and its surroundings, past woods inhabited by monkeys, on to the small village of Kintamani, where a resthouse is found. There is a new resthouse with 6 rooms in course of construction. Tariff for the day Fl. 3.50. From the resthouse a beautiful view may be seen when in the early morning the sun rises. Then the whole imposing scene shows a wonderful combination of brilliant colors; a spectacle, never to be forgotten. The climate at Kintamani, which lies on an altitude of 5500 feet a.s. is very cool, the nights being even cold. Mostly a day is spent at the resthouse, which time is used to make an excursion to the village of Batoer and the lake. Horses for this excursion may be ordered through the native keeper of the resthouse, the charge for a horse being Fl. 1.50, while a coolie for edibles etc. is paid Fl. 0.35. The road from Kintamani to the village Batoer is as far as Panalokan the same as the one the Traveller came by. From there it descends in very steep turns to the village, and in a good many places one has to descend from his horse. The descent is made in about half an hour, for fully 1000 feet. The small village offers a dreary aspect, there being no vegetation except a few pine apples. The interesting point of it lies chiefly in the temple entrance against which the lava stream has stuck. It is a difficult walk from the village to the borders of the lake, the path leading over the old lava stream, which chiefly consists of sharp stones, but it is well worth while to go there. Sometimes a small boat may be hired to go out on the lake, but such is not always the case. An ascent of the volcano, although possible, cannot be recommended, on account of it being too strenuous, whilst native guides are not to be had.

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From Kintamani to Singaradja via Tamblang

Distances: Kintamani – Tamblang 19 miles. Tamblang-Singaradja 12 miles. Fares: Horse from Kintamani to Tamblang Fl. 5. – Horse attendant or coolie,, 0.75 Trap from Tamblang-Singaradja,, 4.-

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From Kintamani to Singaradja via Tamblang
It is advisable to start early from Kintamani in order to reach Singaradja before lunch, the distance from Kintamani to Tamblang on horseback taking fully 31/ hours. The way leads along a good road which as far as Koeta Dalem, the highest point, follows the old crater wall. At this village the road turns to the left, leaving the splendid view over the whole crater complex. But the landscape which is now offered to the view is not less beautiful. Now toiling up a steep ascent, then descending a sharp declivity, the scenery at every point is exquisite. To the North the sea is seen from far and the whole part of the country passed through, is of a not to be surpassed beauty. A little further coffee plantations are reached and on all sides the population may be seen busy with this culture. Till the village of Tamblang the trip is done on horseback. Here the horses are left and traps, which are always waiting for passengers, are taken for the further part of the journey. The first part of the road, after leaving Tamblang leads through a hilly part of the country, which offers some nice sights. At the village Koeboetambahan, one comes on the main road, which runs along the coast, and which is very well kept, broad and shady; however it does not offer much of interest to the Traveller. Past the well known temple of Sangsit, which is situated on a byway of the main road, it leads to Boeleleng and from there on to Singaradja, which may be reached a little after midday . Boeleleng is on flat ground near the seashore, but Singaradja, some 2 miles inland is on a slight elevation Singaradja is the Capital of Bali and Lombok, and the station of the Resident and other Officials of the Government. It is a very healthy place with wonderful beautiful surroundings. When on the main road near the Resident’s house, the Traveller sees in front the foliage and trunks of large trees, framing charming pictures of well watered rice fields, whose tender green shows against the darker hues of trees and hedges, to melt at last in the blue of the sea. Behind, the hills swell upwards and seem to roll themselves towards the great volcano.

There is a large and well managed resthouse, containing six large and airy bedrooms and which certainly is the best resthouse in the whole of the Dutch possessions. The tariff is according to the room, from Fl. 6.50 to Fl. 8.50 a day.

From Singaradja to Batoeriti via Moendoek and the lakes

Distances: Singaradja – Moendoek 28 miles. Moendoek-Batoeriti 20 Fares: Trap from Singaradja to Moendoek Fl. 1 5.- Horse from Moendoek to Batoeriti,, 5.- Coolie or Horse attendant,, 1 .25

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The well kept road follows the coast till the village of Boeboenan, where it turns to the South. The first p art does not offer much of interest to the Tourist, but this changes after leaving Boeboenan. Then a hilly country is gone through which offers many splendid views and sights and can best be compared with the country between Tamblang and Koeta Dalem. At Boeboenan is a resthouse with four rooms, where mostly a halt is made to give the horses a rest. The resthouse at Moendoek is very nicely situated and at sunset a beautiful sight is enjoyed from the front porch, on to the Straits of Bali and the adjacent mountains. There is a nice and refreshing swimming bath near the resthouse. The next day the rather strenuous trip to Batoeriti is commenced in the early morning. A small footpath leads through a beautiful mountainous country and a while after through well shaded coffee plantations, with here and there experimental gardens, laid out by the Government. Going on, one gets the first glimpses of the beautiful lakes Danau Tamblingan and Danau Boejan; the slopes to the lakes are very steep and one is wond ering at the work of the Balinese, who have nearly all of the slopes in cultivation. A wooden flight of stairs descends to the lakes, but the descent can only be done by people who do not suffer from giddiness. For more than an hour beautiful peeps on the lakes far below may be had from different points in the road, till one comes to the natural mountainous dam which separates the two lakes; there is a signpost marked,,Kijk Uit” (Bellevue). The road leads further till Tojo Ketipat, where a cross road leads southward to the lake Bratan. The road is far from easy and a little after leaving Tojo Ketipat part of it has to be done on foot. At some points glimpses of the Lakes Boejan and Tamblingan are had, showing far below and a little further the lake Bratan is seen. Descending all the time the. road gets a little better and about lunch time one comes to the lake, a couple of small villages being passed. on the way. At the borders of the lake Bratan is a small resthouse, which however is always kept locked; the key may be got at Batoeriti. If therefore the Traveller wants to stay over night here, he must arrange previously with the Officials. In any case a rest is taken here and at the same time lunch partaken of; thereafter the trip to Batoeriti is continued; the distance being only 5 miles, it is reached in about one hours time. The resthouse is nicely situated in a rose garden and countains four rooms. Tariff Fl. 3.75 a day. From this place a beautiful view is had on the Tabanan mountain complex.

From Singaradja to Batoeriti via Gitgit and the lakes.

Distances: Singaradja-Poernahan 4 miles. Poemahan – Gitgit 3 Gitgit-Batoeriti 27 Fares: From Singaradja to Poemahan, trap Fl. 2.50 From Poemahan to Gitgit, horse,, 1 .50 coolie,, 0.50 From Gitgit to Batoeriti, horse,, 5.- coolie,, 1.25

Another way of going from Singaradja to Batoeriti is via Gitgit and the lakes. The best time to leave Singaradja is in the afternoon as then the mountains in the background show beautiful colouring in the rays of the sun. It is only a distance of 7 miles to Gitgit, which can however only be done by trap till the village Poemahan, the remainder must be done either on foot or on horseback. The road leads past terraces planted with rice, variegated by woods and ravines; looking backwards, the Traveller beholds a beautiful sight over the sea. When arriving at Gitgit, a good impression of the clever way in which the Balinese cultivate the steep slopes of the mountains may be had from the small summerhouse, which is found just in front of the resthouse, this place being a nice spot to spend some time at leisure. The resthouse at Gitgit has three rooms; tariff per day Fl. 3.50. Passing the night at the resthouse, the next morning an early start is made. in the beginning a winding road, ascending steeply and which is laid out as a flight of stairs, is followed, till one reaches the ridge of hills which forms the natural division between the rivers running North and South. Thick woods, used for shading the coffee trees are passed on both sides and only in some places a glimpse of the sea to the North is had. A little while further a small mountain stream is crossed and not long after Tojo Ketipat is reached. The further part of the road to Batoeriti is the same as the one already described, when going from

From Batoeriti to Tabanan and on to Den Pasar

Distances: Batoeriti – Tabanan 26 miles. Tabanan – Den Pasar 14 Batoeriti – Den Pasar direct via Koehoen 28 Fares: Batoeriti-Tabanan, horse Fl. 5.- Batoeriti-Den Pasar, horse,, 5.- Tabanan-Den Pasar, trap,, 10.- Coolie Batoeriti-Tabanan,, 1.50 Batoeriti-Den Pasar,, 1.50

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From Batoeriti to Tabanan and on to Den Pasar.
 The distance Batoeriti-Tabanan may also be done by trap, but this must be arranged and ordered beforehand from Den Pasar; there is no fixed tariff. The road leads from Batoeriti through a hilly part of the country, which does not offer many views to the Traveller and it is only when nearing Tabanan that here and there a glimpse from the sea far away is had. Nevertheless the country is a very beautiful one and the ride well worth doing. Reaching Tabanan in about 6 hours, lunch is taken in the resthouse and the Traveller may proceed by trap to Den Pasar, which trap has to be ordered previously. If he thinks this too strenuous, he may stay overnight at the resthouse and proceed the next day to Den Pasar. When going direct from Batoeriti to Den Pasar the road to Tabanan is left a little after the village Sajan, to join the main road from Tabanan to Den Pasar at Mengwitani. The resthouse at Tabanan contains four rooms. Tariff per day FL. 3.50. From Tabanan the trip through the Island is continued via Den Pasar-Gianjar—-Bangli and Kintamani to return at Singaradja and embark there

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